Ragu

Spring seems to be creeping upon us, but while we are still bundling up to go outside I figured I might as well try my hand at one of cold weather's most comforting cures- ragu. There are infinite ways to make it. Everyone seems to agree that there should be more than one kind of meat- whether it be a ground veal, pork or beef, pancetta, prosciutto, mortadella, braised lamb shank, or sausage. Some variations include porcini mushrooms, anchovies, chicken livers, herbs and peperoncino. Most all ragus include at least a thread of diced, crushed or concentrated tomato. The addition of cream and red or white wine can enrich the ragu with flavor while keeping the meat from drying out or over browning. During the three hours I let my ragu simmer I added delicate pours of milk or white wine when the sauce appeared 'thirsty'. When I couldn't wait any longer to eat it I tore sections from yesterday's boule, toasting it before dunking it in to the thick succulent ragu.

I had made more than I could possibly eat, so I continued to experiment with the rest. I let it sit in the refrigerator overnight and firm up. To reheat it I put 2 cups of the ragu in a wok with 1/3 of a cup of reduced broth I had made with lamb neck, beef shank, and lamb and beef bones. The presence of collagen, calcium, minerals and the amino acids proline and glycine from the bones made the stock velvety,  gelatinous and nutritious. With the heat on high I incorporated the meat and liquid quickly so as not to loose moisture while also allowing the meat to maillardize on the hot thin surface. Raising the lush level, I spooned the revised ragu over slow-cooking smooth soft Polenta Bramata, a gorgeous intensely orange corn flour from Desana, Italy, a tiny town in the Piedmont region of North West Italy. I finished with a grate of Parmagiano-Reggiano from the Emilia Romagna Region, where Ragu Bolognese is one of the most common dishes. Here is my latest interpretation of this classic.

Ragu Bolognese

In a medium heavy bottom sauce pan heat:

-1 large spanish onion, diced

-2 celery stalks, diced

-2 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced

in

-3 tablespoons of hot extra-virgin olive oil

Add and cook for about 5 minutes until translucent and brown, then increase the heat to add:

-1/2 pound ground veal 

-1/2 pound ground pork

- 1/4 pound of pancetta, diced

Do not overcook meat, it will have hours to cook fully, and browning may create a seal that will keep it from softening in the braising liquids. Stir in:

- 4 oz of tomato paste

- 1/2 cup of whole milk

- 1/2 cup of white wine

- 1/2 teaspoon of fresh thyme and rosemary

Bring to a boil and then reduce heat and let simmer on low for 21/2-3 hours, stirring occasionally.

This is not meant to be a tomato cream sauce, the liquid serves to bind the ingredients and moisten the meat, but a little can be added with wine if the ragu needs hydration. Season with salt and pepper. When serving with pasta, heat ragu in a pan with a splash of starchy pasta water, incorporate and then toss pasta to bind. What is not immediately devoured can keep in the fridge for a few days and in the freezer for a month.